THE MAN'S COSTUME
Headgear (Sard. berritta)
The most common headgear is the berritta.
It may be black or red, of wool or other cloth.
Given its length (about 50 cm), it may fall to one side or in back or be folded to stay in front. Shirt (Sard. bentone) Cotton or linen, it is always loose and white in colour. The collar, which in some cases is missing, may be embroidered or be closed by gold or silver fasteners.
Jacket (Sard. zippone, cosso)
Like that of women, it is of high-quality fabric, often not from the island: velvet, brocade or fine wool.
With (zippone) or without (cosso) sleeves, it is single or double-breasted and closed in front.
Of different colours, it is often embroidered
or with multi-coloured finishing on the front part.
Trousers (Sard. cartzones)
Linen, cotton or heavy wool, they are always white and very loose.
They are often long, but length may vary, and are tucked into gaiters (cartzas) made of different materials like fine or heavy wool or leather.
Short Black Skirt (Sard. ragas, cartzones de furesi)
Very typical, it is a simple rectangle of cloth, gathered at the waist.
In heavy or fine wool, it is worn over the trousers.
Overcoat ( Sard. cappottinu, gabbanu, collettu, sacu de coberri)
Over their clothes, men wear several types of jackets
and coats, according to their trade and social class.
They are all made of rough woollen cloth:
>jacket with hood (cappottinu)
>long overcoat with a slit in back (gabbanu, cabanu, cabanella)
>cloak (saccu de coberri)
In the Campidano area, the long overcoat is often replaced by a brown woollen coat with a hood (cappottu serenicu)
The sleeveless coat of tanned hide, belted at the waist and called collettu, is now rare or non-existent.
Very common among shepherds, it is a sleeveless jacket of sheepskin or lambskin.
Its area of origin determines its Sardinian name: best'e peddi, everchina, tzamarara, etc.
It is a very ancient garment: Cicero, referring sconrfully to Sardinians living in the interior of the island, who were never completely subdued by Rome, called them latruncoli mastrucati, evidently alluding to their most typical garb.
photos by Piercarlo Murru